Knitted fabric and article of wearing apparel



Sept' 29 194Z- w.t E. sHEx-:LER 2,297,028

KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE OF WEARING APPAREL Filed NOV. 13, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 :ELLE-i- ATTORNEY. i

Sept. 29, 1942. w; E. sHsLER `2,297,628

KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE 0F WEARING APPAREL 8 sheets-sheet `2 Filed Nov. 13, 1939 FLE- 5- SePt- 29, 1942- w.4E'. sHEr-:LER 2,297,028 I KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE OF WEARING APPAREL Filed Nov. l5, 1939 V 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 FJ. E-gl- FLE- 1.5-

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Sept. 29, 1942. w; E. sHEl-:LER 2,297,028

KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE OF WEARING APPAREL Filed Nov. 15. 1939 s sheets-sheet 5 i la" vAvLvAvAivA INVENTOR: Wl'amE. 'heeler,

Sept. 29, 1942. w. E. sHEELER l 2,297,028

KNITTED FBRIC AND ARTICLE 0F WEARING APPAREL Filed Nov. 13, 1.959 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR:

Sept. 29, 1942. w. E. sHEl-:LER

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Sept. 29, 1942?'. w. E. SHEELER KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE 0F WEARING APPAREL Filed Nov. 13, 1939 v8 Sheets-Sheet 8 F; EnEE;

FLE- 55- Patented Sept. 29, 1942 KNITTED FABRIC AND ARTICLE OF WEARIN G APPAREL William E. Sheeler, Spring Township, Berks County, Pa., assignor to Berkshire Knitting Mills, Wyomissing, Pa., a corporation of Penn- Sylvania Application November 13, 1939, Serial No. 304.5907

(Cl. (i6- 172) 11 Claims.

My invention relates to knitted fabrics or parts thereof consisting entirely of elastic yarn, `and more .particularly to such fabrics having noncurling characteristics, such as illustrated in my copending application, Serial No. 282,513, filed July l, 1939, now Patent No. 2,279,346, as well as to 'articles of wearing apparel embodying non- .curling elastic yarn zones or areas, and to a new method or `process of making the same.

Heretofore, a zone or zones of elastic fabric have been embodied between the welt and the knee of full fashioned silk hose `to relieve the stitches knitted of inelastic yarn of the strain caused by bending the knee. Depending upon the method of knitting, and the loop formation selected, difficulty was experienced with such arrangements due to .curling of the elastic zone. The curling made 'the hose unattractive in appearance and lessened the sales appeal of the same. 'I'he idifculty as to poor appearance due to curling was somewhat reduced by `dividing the necessary number of ,courses of elastic yarn between several narrow elastic zones, but this increased the cost of the stockings ,and merely reduced, but did not eliminata the difficulty. It has been suggested that the difficulty as to curling in elastic fabric zones be overcome by forming ribs in the elastic fabric to stiffen it. However, solving the problem iby forming ribbed elastic zones greatly limits the selection of loop formations or patterns which may be utilized for` producing such elastic zones in hosiery.

It is an object of my invention to provide a novel knitted fabric or fabric portion of the type consisting entirely of elastic yarn which is initially of substantially non-curling character, and ladapted for use in hosiery generally, and in a great variety of articles of wearing apparel.

It is another object of my invention to provide a method of making a fabric or fabric .portion of fine .gauge elastic yarn adapted for use Iin sheer silk Ihosiery and adapted to lie fiat whether of ribbed, of |plain, or of other loop formation.

Another object of my invention is to provide a novel stocking having one or more Such elastic fabric zones which are not only non-curling but which have a high percentage of stretch in the walewise and coursewise directions to thereby decrease the amount of the high priced elastic yarn needed for protecting the silk yarns in hosiery from undue strain.

Still `another object of my invention is to provide a fabric or fabric portion entirely of fine gauge elastic yarn without potentialorunrelieved internal tension when in relaxed condition.

Still another object of my invention 1s to provide a novel method of producing elastic yarn Ifabrics on machines whose clearances between certain knitting elements corresponds with or is less than the diameter of the unstretched or relaxed elastic yarn.

With these vand other objects in view, which Iwill become apparent from the following detailed description of the illustrative embodiment of the invention shown in the accompanying drawings, my invention resides in the novel method, articles of manufacture and knitting machine improvements, as hereinafter more particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is an elevation of -a full fashioned stocking in which my invention has been incorporated, the stocking being shown in la't form;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary section `taken substantially along the line 2-2 of Fig. 1, and being enlarged relative thereto;

Fig. .3 is 'an elevation on -an enlarged scale of a rectangular portion of Fig. 1 whose approximate walewise length is indicated by the lines 3 3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is an elevation on an enlarged scale of a rectangular portion of Fig. 3, the approximate walewise length of which is indicated by the lines ll-'d of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view showing the action of a slur cam on the suikers, and the action of the sinkers on the yarn when laying elastic yarn vto the needles of a full fashioned knitting machine in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 6 is a View partially in section taken substantially along the line 6--6 of Fig. 5 and being on reduced scale relative thereto;

Fig. 'l is a sectional plan view showing the relation of the yarn, the needles, the sinkers and the dividers after the elastic yarn has been divided, the needles being in the same horizontal position as in Fig. 5;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional .plan view showing a group of needles of a knitting 'machine having a section of fabric in accordance with my invention attached thereto;

Fig. 9 is a detail Iplan Niew of the slur cam partially shownin Fig. 5;

Fig. I0 is an enlarged diagrammatic view `of a single or separated rcourse of loops of the elastic fabric vshown `in Fig. 4 in 'relaxed condition;

Fig. 11 'is .a view of the elastic yarn used in the elastic 'fabric and in l0, but in straight form;

Fig. 12 is an enlarged diagrammatic view of a single or separated course of loops of silk or other textile yarn of a fabric section knitted integrally with the elastic fabric as shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 13 is a view of the yarn used in Fig. 12 and in the portions of Figs. 1 and 3 knitted of ordinary non-elastic textile yarn;

Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic illustration showing on an enlarged scale a single loop of elasticyarn at the point in the knitting cycle shown in Fig.

7; that is after the dividers have been brought.

forward, the needles being held closer to the presser edge than normally in Fig. 7;

Fig. 15 is a detail View showinga single loop of elastic yarn, drawn to the same scale as Fig. 14, as it appears after it has been removed from the machine and relieved of all tension;

Fig. 16 is a detail View showing a single loop of inelastic yarn, drawn to the same scale as Figs. 14 and 15, as it appears after it has been removed from the machine and relieved of all tension, the needlesr being in the usual position relative to the presser edge at the time the thread for Vthe course containing this loop was divided;

Figs. V17 and 18 are Views similar to Fig. 3, showing modified forms of the invention;

Figs. 19 and 20 are fragmentary sectional views similar to a portion of Fig. 2 of the rnoolications*Y shown in Figs. 1.7 and 18, respectively;

Fig. 21 is a face view of two integrally knitted sections composed of plain knit fabric in accordance with prior art teachings, one of inelastic yarn and the other of elastic yarn as they appear after removal from the machine and free from all external tension;

Fig. 22 is a view similar to Fig. 21 but showing the opposite side of the elastic section;

Fig. 23 is a view similar to Fig. 21, but in which the elastic section is knitted according to a known form 0f lace stitch;

Fig. 24 is a detail sectional View through a portion of the elastic lace fabric of Fig. 23 and showing its tendency to curl; Y

Fig. 25 is a'detail sectional view showing the position of the needles with respect to the sinkers and the presser edge when using/elastic yarn and just as the sinkers begin to be pushed forward;

Fig. 26 is Ya detail sectional View showing theY ordinary presser cam on the main cam shaft and the carn on said shaft used to control the horizontal position of the needle bar during the couliering of the sinkers when knitting rubber containing elastic yarn and the relative positionV of the cam follower therefor at the beginning of the couliering stroke, the latter cam being of an ordinary form, but displaced angularly from the usual position;

Fig. 27 is similar to Fig. 25 but shows the needles in the position reached -by them just after the dividers have been brought forward, Fig. 27 also showing the parts at the same point in the cycle as Figs. 7 and 14;

Fig. 28 is a view similar to Fig. 26, but shows the cams shown in Fig. 26 in the position they occupy at the point in the cycle corresponding to Fig. 27;

Fig. 29Y is a sectional detail view showing cams and followers for the same purpose as those shown in Figs. 26 and 28but' the cam for vcontrolling the needle bar during couliering having the usual angular position with respect to the cam shaft and follower and a modified outline' at the point in contact with its follower at the time dividing of the elastic yarn is accomplished shown in Fig. 33 as the fabric to hold the needles in the horizontal position shown in Figs. 25 and 27.

Fig. 30 is a face view somewhat larger than full size, of a section of another fabric within my invention;

Fig. 31 is a face View of the fabric section shown in Fig. 30 as the fabric appears when stretched somewhat in both the walewise and coursewise directions;

Fig. 32 is a view on a considerably enlarged scale of a portion of Fig. 30;

Fig. 33 is a View on a considerably enlarged scale of a portion of Fig. 31;

Fig. 34 is a face View, somewhat larger than full size, of a section of another knitted fabric within my invention;

Fig. 35 is a face view of the fabric section appears when stretched somewhat in both the walewise and coursewise directions;

Fig. 36 is a view on a considerably enlarged scale of a portion of Fig. 34; and

Fig. 37 is a view on a considerably enlarged scale of a portion of Fig. 35.

In the drawings and description, only those parts necessary to a complete understanding of the invention have been set forth; further information as to the construction and operation of other elements not herein specically pointed out, but which are usual and well known, being available in the pamphlet entitled Full Fashioned Knitting Machines, copyright 1920, and in the Reading Full Fashioned Knitting Machine Catalogues, copyright 1929 and 1935, published by the Textile Machine Works, Reading, Penna., and in a pamphlet entitled Knitting Machine Lectures, published in 1935 by the Wyomissing Polytechnic Institute,v Wyomissing, Pennsylvania.

A fabric within my invention is one partially or entirely knitted of elastic yarn and either plain knit or having a ribbed, lace or other stitch formation,` but free from material tendency to curl when in normal relaxed condition.

The elimination of curling tendency in the fabrics of my invention is due to the fact that there is no internal tension or unrelieved strain in the elastic yarn or loop formation when the fabric is in its relaxed or normal unstretched condition olf the machine. The absence of internal strain is due, at least in considerable part, to the fact that the fabrics of my invention are produced .by a novel method which involves feeding enough elastic yarn per course to the needles of a fairly fine gauge full fashioned knitting machine to provide elastic loops long enough in proportion to the size of the yarn to avoid motion preventing contact between the needle loops of one course and the sinker loops in the second course from it when the fabric is entirely relaxed. There is, therefore, no reaction between the loops or the courses to prevent the yarn and the loops from relieving themselves of all potential strain or tension, and there is, therefore, no force tending to make the fabric curl or distort, any more than in the ordinary knitted fabric.

In making courses of elastic yarn which will :be free of curling tendency when removed from the machine, it is, of course, necessary to use an elastic thread of fine enough gauge compared to that of the machine so that it will not be pinched during the knitting operation. It has been previously noted by others that elastic thread should be given only sulicient tension to prevent .kinking or twisting while being fed to the needles of a knitting machine, -as -more tension than this `on the elastic yarn'is apt tojcausedifficulties in knittingit due to piling 'up `of `loops on the needles, yand such ltension also induces the conditions which result "in thecurli'n'g action after the 'fabric has'been removed from the Inachine.

'Referring to the drawings, 'and more v'particu'- larly to Fig. 1, Ya st'oclcing v2li! whichembodies my fabric invention, and which is manufactured in accordance with my lprocess or method'invention, in most respects resembles r'onefof "ordinary type and 'comprises 'a welt portion 2|, which 'may 'be of well known construction, preferably the 'ordi'- nary two-'ply welt type, with 'an afterwelt '22, "of ordinary textile yarn, prefer-ably silk. Between the afterwelt V22 'and the leg 23,or forming 'part of the afterwelt, is a strain-absorbing Zone. 24 consisting entirelyo'f el'astic 'yarn 25, 'and "knitted integrally with parts 22 and 23. Theoutside appearance ofthe loop formation of 'Zone 24 is 'illustrated in Fi'g. 3, and the inside appearance 'is illustrated in Fig. 4. The loopfor'rnation is 'shown on an enlargedscale in these gures, Yand'cfimprises plain loops throughout theelastic z'one 24.

It is clear from both Figs. 3 and 4 that the individual loop-s or stitches X of vzone 2li have frictional engagement only "with those in the 'adjacent courses with which they are interknitted so that they are free to adj'istthenselves to a flat position in the saine way as the loopsI or stitches of silk or other textile "yarn in sections 22 and 23. That is to say, 4the upper end of `a needle loop X in a given Icourse 26 intere'nga'ges with the needle loop vin the course immediately above it in the same Wale and with the upper ends of the sinker loops in the course l'nekt below it and in the adjacent sinker wales, but Vthere isa distinct space 27 between the lower end of a given needle loop X (Fig. 4) and thelipper ends of sinker loops in the next adjacent 'wales but in the second course below the said given needle loop. Similar spaces will be noted throughout Fig. 4. A prerequisite of spaces such as 251 is that there be enough elastic yarn permloop or stitch and per course so thatAthe loops will have a certain minimum length whenthe` fabric is unstretched. With this construction the yarnis relieved of all internal strain and therefore there is no force tending to make the 'fabric curl, 'thus resulting in a fiat fabric as shown in Fig. 2. The flatness of the fabric in zone 2i beingdue to the vlack of internal tension therein, the width of the elastic Zone is immaterial to its atness and it is to be understood Vthat the Zone 24 will contain enough courses of elastic yarn to protect the inelastic portion of the fabric againstl excessive stress. Heretofore, in order to provide sufficient elasticity in full length ladies stockings, the practice, in some instances, has been to make such zone with approximately 30 courses of elastic yarn. In accordance with my invention, a greater, or lesser number of elastic yarn lcourses may be embodied in an article, depending upon the amount of elasticity desired.I y

In Fig. 11, the length of elastic yarn used in one course made on a 14 inch knitting head is indicated diagrammatically and on an enlarged and approximate scale by dimensional arrow E and, when using yarn of 0.0105 inch diameter, amounts to between 44 and 46 inches. By comparison, Fig. i3 indicates on the same scale and by dimensional arrow S that the length of 6-thread silk 35, for a course made under the same conditions is approximately 671/2 inches.

Likewise, in Fig. f14 is Ashown the llength ofja loop X -ofv elastic yarn between two needfl" F38 (Fig. 7) when the yarn is held ,by both the sinners 28 and `dividers29. This length is lnecessarilythe same for loops made vwith both elastic shown in Figs. 10 and 1-1 and non-elastic :yarns shown in Figs. 12 and 1'3, at the :time the sinker and divider loops are formed. However, when the fabric is taken` off 'the machine, fabric knitted of elastic yarn contracts so that loops Hof fthe length of that shown in Fig. 14A become "of the length of that shown in Fig. 15 for `elastic yarn and the length of that shown in Fig. 16 for Yinelastic yarn. Fig. 10 shows the resulting course of loops of elastic yarn and Fig. 12 theres'ultirig course of loops of inelastic yarn, both tofsmjaller scale than the corresponding loo'pssho'wnin 15 and 16, respectively, Figs. 10 an`d`12 also showing how the loops of elastic yarn Vcontract come pared to those in inelastic yarn. 'One reason for this shrinkage is that the drawoff tension has been released. Another reason for this shrinkage is that I have found that due to friction it is practically impossible to avoid stretching the elastic yarn, at least to some extent, in laying and knitting it, the elastic yarn being lin general somewhat larger in diameter 'than the finer gauge inelastic silk yarns most commonly `used in full fashioned knitting machines 'at the present time. This will be clear when it "is considered that Figs. 5 to 16 herein are based on a i5-gauge full fashioned knitting machine -a'ndfthe inelastic yarn 35 (Fig. 13) is assumed to be -a G-thread silk yarn, the elastic yarn 2`5 (Fig. "11) being shown to the same approximate vscale as the G-thread yarn. The fact that friction stretches the elastic yarn even Ywhen all precautions are taken to reduce it to 'a minimum is clear from Fig. 5 in which'the action of th'e'sin'kers (jack sinkers) 28 is shown to reduce 4the thickness of the elastic yarn 25 materially.

The full fashioned knitting machine is Voften used to produce fabrics containing lace andother special loop 'structures which embody ribs. From this it will be appreciated that other fabrics of elastic yarn, differing in loop structure from the one hereinabove so far described, come within the scope of my invention. An example of such fabric is disclosed in Figs. 17 and 19, in which I have shown, instead of strain absorbing zone 24, a non-curling fabric setion At3 within the invention, integrally knitted of elastic yarn, having a special, though known, vstitch or loop formation. The loop formation or arrangement shown in Fig. 17 comprises a group of loops 32, spaced in the coursewise direct-ion in a given course Xa, each transferred to the right as viewed in Fig. "17, and a group of loops 33, each adjacent one of said loops 32 in the same course and each transferred to the 'left as viewed Ain Fig. 17. The course Ya succeeding v course Xa has a group of coursewise spaced loops 34, each transferred to the right as viewed in vFig. Y1.7 and lying in the same wales as loops 32, but no other loops are transferred in course Ya. A 'needle loop and a sinker loop are therefore left unsupand one right from the same Wale 'as the first but in the next course, is then repeated beginning in the course next to course Za, but in wales intermediate those in which loops were first transferred. After loops have been transferred in the wales intermediate those first operated on, loops are again transferred in the wales first operated on, so that the apertures 36 of successive coursewise rows are offset in the coursewise direction. Also all the wales,V contain transferred stitches. The resulting fabric is not only ornamental, but is substantially free of the tendency to curl, as shown in Fig. 19. It also has a highV elasticity or stretch in spite of the ribs formed by the transferred stitches, as disclosed more fully in my said copending application. While the lattice formed by transferred stitches, 32, 33 and 34 has an anti-curl effect, I prefer to make the fabric of section 43 to have enough elastic yarn per course and per stitch to avoid any potential or inherent tension in the fabric. However, fabrics of the type of Figs. 17 and 19 will curl if knitted too tight, as is shown hereinafter in connection with Figs. 23 and 24. v

In Fig. 17, the fabric is shown as it appears from the outside of the stocking when worn, the transferred stitches 32, 33 and 34 therefore being shown as beneath other stitches.

My invention is applicable also to elastic yarn fabrics knitted with stretched or non-run loops of the type shown in Patents Nos. 1,470,490, patented October 9, 1923 and 1,856,053, patented April 26, 1932, it being possible to make noncurling elastic yarn fabric Awith these types of loops in accordance with my invention. In Figs. 18 and 20, there is shown a section 44 of nonrun fabric within the invention. Instead of the strain absorbing zone 24 in Fig. 1, a section 44 of elastic yarn and having the loop or stitch formation shown in said patents, may be embodied in a stocking. In section 44, certain loops 3l in alternate courses are stretched to cover two needle wales, thereby preventing runs from passing through them in either direction. Section i4A is knitted so as to have enough elastic yarn per course and per stitch to avoid any unbalanced tension. As shown, stitches 31, are spaced apart in given courses but are distributed according to a pattern such that a stretched loop 3l occurs in each wale to make a fabric that is substantially non-run throughout.

When making elastic fabric as shown in Figs. 3, 4, 17, 18, 30 and 34, the setting of the machine requires to be changed. When making elastic fabric containing either of these stitches, a very high knock-over cam is used compared to the regular work cam. Also, the needle depth in knock over is deeper for rubber yarn than for ordinary textile yarn. These two features cooperate to compensate for the stretch in the elastic yarn due to friction between the loopsV as the new loops are pulled down by the nee-V Further, I have foundV that when knitting rubber, if a special dividing' dles through the old ones.

cam is used to hold the rubber loops firmly in dividing, said dividing cam acts on the ordinary. regulating shaft to hold the needles closer toV the presser edge during dividing to take up anyv slack that may develop in the loops of elastic due to friction and hold the loops rmly against the needle shanks to avoid danger that a loop may be dropped from its needle.

28, I have shown arrangements for this purpose comprising a cam 50 on the main cam shaft 5t of the full fashioned knitting machine and having the same general form as certain of the loose,

In Figs. 26 andcourse cams found in a good many full fashioned knitting machines, which cams however effect only certain of the usual functions of the normal Vloop regulating mechanism. Cam 50 has a cam follower 52 which is shiftable, usually by hand, so as to either contact cam 50 or not as desired. Follower 52 is, of course, connected to the ordinary regulating shaft to control the horizontal position of the needles, their distance from the presser edge 54, from the time the sinkers begin to be forced forward by the jacks under the influence of the slur cock cam until the dividers have been brought forward. This is the usual thing in full fashioned machines. However, an ordinary loose course cam is so set that the relieved portion 53 at its rear end is operative to permit the needles to move forward a little away from the presser edge 54 just before the dividers come forward. This is so as to slacken the textile yarn so that the divider loops may be readily formed. I purposely so set the cam 50 and follower 52 relatively to each other that the dividers are fully forward before the follower 52 reaches the relieved part 53. This is clear from Figs. 27 and 28 which show the parts at the same instant, The angular shift of cam 50 to produce this result is indicated by angle shown in dotted lines in Fig. 28. In Fig. 27, the dividers, appearing in dotted lines, are shown fully forward, while, in Fig. 28, the roller 52 has not reached the portion 53 of the cam. Cam 5U being in use when the elastic yarn is being knitted and being of circular contour between the points in contact with the follower in Figs. 26 and 28, it follows that the needles 38 remain at the same distance from the presser edge when the dividers come forward as during the couliering and the elastic yarn and the dividers are strongly pressed against the yarn between alternate pairs of needles to stretch it and ensure that the yarn will be divided equally between the sinker and the divider loops. Of course, the needles move downward in the usual way between the point in the cycle corresponding to Figs. 25 and 26 and that corresponding to Figs. 27 and 28.

Instead of changing the angular relation of the cam and roller to maintain the needles in constant spaced relation to the presser edge from the beginning of the couliering stroke until the dividers are fully forward, a loose course cam 50A (Fig. 29) may be used of the ordinary angular length and placed in the usual angular position on the shaft and in relation to the cam follower, but of uniform circular contour from its center to its trailing edge.

Also shown in Figs. 26, 28 and 29, are the usual presser cam 55 and its follower 56 which take control lof the regulating shaft and the horizontal position of the needle bar immediately after the point in the cycle shown in Figs. 27, 28 and 29. Cam 55 is shown in the usual angular position with respect'to shaft 5|. In Fig. 29 there is also partially shown in dotted lines one of the above mentioned course cams 5l in the usual position on shaft 5|.

The elastic yarn used in conjunction with my invention, may be the type made under the Adamson U. S. Patent No. 1,822,847, commercially known as L'astex elastic yarn, but I do not limit myself to this.

When using elastic yarn of 0.0105 inch diameter, substantially the maximum diameter of elastic yarn permitted in practicing my inventionfon a 14 inch head of a l5-gauge machine,

the maximum length of loop permissible uses from 44 to 46 inches of relaxed elastic yarn per course; However, the covering of the elastic yarn must be very soft to permitk yarn. asl large as; this to be used successfully. Preferably, I use elastic yarn of 0.009- inch tai-0.0095 inch in diameter, or smaller,` on a l-gauge full fashioned machine. By comparison, a thirty-six thread gum silk yarn is approximately 0.0105 inch in diameter. With a givenl machine setting, the elastic yarn of 0.0105 inch diameter produces approximately 52 courses per inch in the; relaxed or unstretched fabric. With the, same machine setting, a 6 thread gum silk yarn produces, 19 to courses per inch, an 18 thread gum silk yarn produces 28 to 29 courses. per inch, and va 24 thread gum silk yarn produces 3 4 to 35 courses per inch, measured in each case along the wales of the fabric. Where, on the one hand the length of a course of relaxed elastic yarn of 0.0105 inch diameter equals 44 to 46 inches, that of a course of 6 thread gum silk equals 671/2 inches; the length of a course of 18 thread gum silk equals 64 inches; and the length of a course of 24 thread gum silk equals 62 inches.

Certain approximate dimensions of the standard 45-gauge full fashioned knitting machine which are of special importance in knitting with elastic yarn are as follows: distance between adjacent needles, 0.0182 inch; thickness of needle 0.0151 inch; thickness of sinker or divider, 0.006 inch; distance between needle and sinker or divider, 0.0061 inch; distance between throats of sinkers and beard edges of needles at `beginning of oouliering, 0.125 inch which is the same as the distance between throats of sinkers and dividers and beard' edge of needles during dividing.

For purposes of approximation, the following table of approximate dimensions is given: Space between sinkers or dividers and needles in full fashioned knitting machines of various gauges- Space in Gauge inches When `operating"according tol my process invention, sinkers 28 are advanced in the usual manner as shown in Figs. 5 and 6 by a slur cam 3l) which is reciprocated horizontally so. as to press successively against the backs of pivoted jacks 3| so as to press them in turn. againstthe rear ends of the sinkers 28 to produce thefaction illustrated in Fig. 5 of kinking the yarn around the needles. After the slur cam has travelled its full stroke in lone direction and thereby drawn out as much yarn as possible for a givenv course, the needles are kept in the same position horizontally until the dividers 29' (divider sinkers) come forward to form loops on all the needles.

, Fixed horizontal position of the needles fromV the time the sinkers have finishedV acting until after the dividers come forward is due to the special divider cam 50 or 50A mentioned hereinabove and is, of course, contrary to the usual practice when knitting textile yarns. the needles usually moving forward just a little at the point in the knitting cycle that the dividers move forward, after which the new loops are drawn through the old ones by the needles. 'Ilhe new course then made is 'added to the previously knitted courses to increase the sizev of the fabric piece being manufactured as shown in Fig. 8.

If have found thatA it is a matter of particular importance to so operate the sinkers 28 that each one is advanced to its fullest extent before the next one to come forward begins to bend the yarn. This feature of my invention is illustrated in Fig. 5 in which it appears clearly that the central sinker of the ones there shown has advanced its full stroke whereas the throat 22oV of the one next to come forward, the sinker at the left` of the central one, has just begun to touch the yarn, but without bending it. Therefore nobend or kink is made in the yarn being drawn from the yarn finger by any but, a single sinker ata time and the minimum stretch is placed-,in the yarn by the'sinkers when operating in accordance with my method invention. Thepresent description is based on the forty-five gauge machine, but instead of using a slur cam of the form` now more commonly employed on the forty-live gauge machines I prefer to empioy a slur cam 30 (Fig. 9) of the form that was standard and ordinarily used on the forty-five gauge machines several years ago. Such cam has a longer centralV iiat Stiav in proportion to its length than those employed on the newer type machines and may for this reason have a sharper angle along its active face. Although I do not wish toconne myself to any particular explanation as to. why such a slur cam accomplishes desired results, itis a fact that inusing the relatively heavy elastic yarn it prevents the second sinker from kinking the yarn until the first one has moved its entire stroke under conditionsl where such kinking would occur if the cam with the shorter central fiat were in use. It will be understood that the slur cam with the shorter central fiat is a more recent development than the one used in carrying out the invention and was furnished with the fortyiive gauge Reading machine used by me, but was changed tothe older type of slur cam shown in Figs. 5 and' 9. It will be understood that the loop length regulating mechanism used in fullfashioned knitting'machines is one which opert ates to increase the length of the loops by moving the needle bank nearer thepresser edge at the beginning of the stroke of the slur cam, and to decreaseY the length of the loops by a contrary movement. The length of the loops therefore cannot be increased beyond a certain length without` causing a second sinker to begin to bend the yarn before a first sinker has finished; thus if the length of teloops is increased beyondf this certain length an increased tension will result in the elasticyarn with consequent shortening of the loops when relaxed and increased difiiculty on the part of the fabric of freeing itself from potential orl inherent tension. However, as a1- ready stated, I increase the length oi' the loops by the ordinary loop regulating mechanism as far as can be done without causing the formation of one sinker loop to. be begun before the next previousY one has been finished. Except as hereinbefore pointed outv with respect to cams 5i! and 553A, the mechanism referred to for controlling the length of the loops is a standard feature of full fashioned Cotton type knitting machines used by me in carrying out my process and said cams are used to augment a well known form of loop regulating mechanism for said type of knitting machine, which loop regulating mechanism is illustrated in Fig. III of the U. S. patent to J. Haines, Jr., No. 1,826,660, October 6, 1931, the patent to Gastrich, No. 1,837,214, December 22,

1931, and the patent to Zwicky, No. 1,417,289, May 23, 1922. Y

In Figs. 21 and 22, there is shown a plain knit section 40 made of elastic yarn, in which the length of yarn per loop and per course is so small that the loops or stitches are drawn up into close enough contact to cause material frictional engagement and thereby prevent the release of the tension in the yarn and loops of the fabric; Fig. 21 illustrates one face of the fabric and Fig. 22 the other. Such fabric, of course, has an inherent curling, or distorting tendency.

Similanly, in Figs. 23 and 24, I have shown a lace fabric portion 4| of elastic yarn and of known stitch formation and which like section 40, is knitted so closely that it will curl; Fig. 24 showing in section a bulge or corrugation 42 of such a fabric portion.

From the foregoing, it will be understood that several factors contribute to the non-curling elastic fabric in accordance with my invention, and to my novel method of making the same. In addition to those mentioned previously herein, I find it advantageous to keep down the friction on the yarn by running the machine at approximately thirty-five courses per minute compared to sixty to Seventy courses per minute for silk yarn. It is also desirable to employ elastic yarn whose ratio of relasticity or stretch is not more than 110%. Another factor, or another way of stating some factors previously mentioned is, that the ratio of the length of loop to the diameter of the elastic yarn of elastic fabric within my invention should be high. Further, the smaller dimension of the yarn after being divided should not be greater than the clearances in the machine between the needles and the sinkers or between the needles and the knockover bits (not shown). It is to be understood, however, that these explanations are not intended to convey express limitations under all circumstances.

Figs. 30 through 37, illustrate two elastic runresistant fabric sections made in accordance with my invention. The fabric shown in these figures is made entirely of elastic yarn and contains transferred stitches forming ribbed portions havl ing a decorative effect. The act of transferring the stitches does not, however, cause any material tension in the knitted loops and, the loops being formed by the means and method hereinabove described, the fabric contains sufficient yarn per loop and per course so that there is enough space between loops to avoid any inherent tendency to curl. The lace eiect produced by transferring certain of the stitches is useful not only for resisting runs and for decoration but also for ventilation, the rubber yarn being warmer than the silk of which the remainder of the stocking is usually made.

In Figs. 30 through 33, a fabric section 60 is shown which is made by transferring the stitches from given alternate needles, say the odd numbered needles, first in one direction and then the other by the picot points on the ordinary picot or lace bar, for four courses or for other convenient even number of courses, and then transferring the stitches from the needles intermediate those from which the picot points first transferred stitches and also first in one direction and then in the opposite direction.

The appearance of the fabric is affected, however, by the routine carried out by the points. In making the fabrics shown in Figs. 30 through 33, the picot points, assuming the cycle to start on the odd numbered needles, transfer loops from the odd numbered to the even numbered needles for four courses, the loops being picked olf the same needles each time and the transfer being first right and then left. After the second transfer to the left, the picot or lace bar is then shifted so that its points register with even numbered needles to the right of those first operated on. The points then transfer the loops first left and then right from the same needles for four courses. The cycle is then repeated throughout the section 6U of elastic yarn.

When the resulting fabric or fabric portion has been removed from the needles, the loops assume positions giving the fabric the appearance shown in Fig. 30. When stretched the fabric 60 assumes the appearance shown in Fig. 31, in which somewhat sinuous ribs are evident.

In making the fabric 6I shown in Figs. 34 through 37, again the regular or usual picot or lace bar is employed and loops are transferred by the points thereon beginning on the odd needles, first right and then left from the same needles for four courses. The picot bar is then shifted so that its points may operate on the loops on the even numbered needles at the right of those from which the rst group of loops was transferred. The points are then operated to transfer loops from the same even numbered needles alternately right and left for four courses. The resulting fabric 6| has the appearance shown in Fig. 34 when removed from the needles. When stretched, however, the loops of the fabric 6| assume positions not to be predicted from the method of making the fabric and giving, when the fabric is stretched, a series of somewhat inclined sinuous ribs as shown in Fig. 35.

While I do not limit myself to Lastex yarn I do consider it essentialthat the elastic yarn used be of the Lastex type to the extent that the core of rubber or the like is wrapped by ne textile material and that the yarn is of the dimensions substantially as hereinabove referred to. It will be understood therefore that where the following claims refer to Lastex type yarn, elastic yarn is intended having such a textile wrapping and a core which is covered by said wrapping but is readily extensible throughout.

Of course, the improvements specifically shown and described by which I obtain the referred to results, can be changed and4 modified in various ways without departing from'the invention herein disclosed and hereinafter claimed.

Further, it will be understood that where the phrase motion preventing contact appears in the following claims, this means contact which will prevent the elastic yarn in the fabric from readily adjusting itself to relieve the internal tension or other form of potential energy therein to the extent that curling or distortion of the fabric will be prevented.

I claim:

1. In an article of wearing apparel, a knitted portion entirely of elastic yarn which is free from the tendency to curl and in which the sinker loops of one course are free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage so that the loops of said portion are entirely relaxed in the completed unstretched fabric, said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

2. A knit fabric section entirely of elastic yarn in which the sinker loops of one course are free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one With which said sinker loops directly interengage when the fabric is free from external tensionl said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

3. A knit fabric section entirely of elastic yarn in which the length of elastic yarn per course is enough to prevent the sinker loops of one course from making motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage, When the fabric is in the relaxed condition, said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

4. An article of manufacture including a knitted fabric entirely of elastic yarn adapted for use on a fine gauge full-fashioned knitting machine, the sinker loops of one course of said fabric being free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage and the loops in said fabric being entirely relaxed in the completed unstretched article whereby said article is adapted not only to lie flat initially but to recover its fiat shape after being stretched smartly in the coursewise direction, and said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

5. A knitted stocking having an integral strain absorbing Zone formed entirely of elastic yarn and of plain knit loops throughout, and said zone having enough elastic yarn per course to prevent curling when free of external tension and the sinker loops of one course being free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage When the fabric is free of external tension, said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

6. A knitted stocking having an integral strain absorbing Zone knitted entirely of elastic yarn and of plain knit loops throughout, said zone having enough elastic yarn per course to maintain the elastic yarn in a balanced condition during tension and relaxation throughout the entire extent of said zone and to cause the sinker loops of one course to be free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage when the fabric is free from external tension, and said yarn being of the Lastex type and having an external diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

7. A knitted stocking having an integral strain absorbing zone knitted entirely of elastic yarn and containing plain knitted loops in each course, said zone having enough elastic yarn per course so that the plain sinker loops of the one course are free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage when the stocking is free of external tension, and said yarn being of the Lastex type and having an external diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

8. A knitted stocking having an integral strain absorbing Zone knitted entirely of elastic yarn and of ribbed structure throughout, said zone having enough elastic yarn per course to maintain the elastic yarn in a balanced condition during tension and relaxation throughout the entire extent of said zone, the sinker loops of one course of said zone being free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage When the fabric is free from external tension, and said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

9. A plain knitted fabric section entirely of elastic yarn which lies at when relaxed and in which the sinker loops of one course are free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage when the fabric is free from external tension, and said yarn being of Lastex type and having an external diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

10. A Weft knitted stocking the major portion of which is formed of fine gauge textile yarn and which has a zone formed entirely of elastic yarn and in which the sinkerloops of one course are substantially free of motion preventing contact with needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage when the fabric is free from external tension, and said elastic yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

11. A knit stocking fabric having a section entirely of elastic yarn in which the sinker loops of one course are free of motion preventing contact with the needle loops of the course next the one with which said sinker loops directly interengage when the fabric is free from external tension, said yarn being of the Lastex type and having a diameter not in excess of 0.0105 inch in the unstretched condition.

WILLIAM E. SHEELER, 

